A short vacation in Cornwall

Sometimes you just want to be somewhere where time seems to go a little slower. Where you wake to the sound of seagulls, walk without hurry, and sit by the sea in the evening eating fish with wind in your hair. Cornwall is such a place.

Last year, my family stayed for a few days near St Ives, a small fishing town on the southwest coast of England – and it really surprised me. Because Cornwall is not only rugged and quiet, it is also warm, lively and at times almost Mediterranean. I am happy to share my experiences and tips with you for when you too feel like taking a breather on the edge of England.

We stayed at the vacation park Una st Ives. A park with beautiful ecological bungalows all with their own jacuzzi and a central building with a swimming pool, gym, wellness, lounge, bar and restaurant. The park is located in the seaside resort of Carbis Bay, right next to St Ives. A great base to explore the area.

St Ives – picturesque but not made

St Ives feels a bit like a painting you can step right into: narrow streets full of white houses, colorful galleries, a cozy harbor and beyond that, suddenly a wide beach where the waves crash on the sand. It is a place where you will immediately unwind, but where there is enough to see and do to fill your days.

The center of St Ives runs parallel to the bay between St Ives Harbour and the lighthouse. The small alleys with smooth cobblestones and the stores and restaurants on either side give you a bit of a Harry Potter feel. But when you walk along the bay with the small boats anchored and the cute gabled houses you suddenly think you are in the Costa Brava. What was also very special to see during the walk we took through St Ives is that at the beginning of the walk the boats were lying dry and on the way back were calmly bobbing in the water. That’s how quickly low tide changes to high tide here.

You can tell from everything that St Ives is an artist’s place – the light here is very special. Soft, bright, almost silvery. Not surprisingly, there is a Tate Museum (small but nice), and you can find a gallery or creative store on almost every street corner. The Barbara Hepworth Museum is also fun to visit, where the sculptures stand among the greenery of the garden. Even if you don’t have much with art, this is just a very nice, quiet place.

Touring around the coast

Britain won’t live up to its reputation if it hasn’t had a day of rain. We too experienced that rainy day. The kids wanted to spend it in the pool at the vacation park and me and my husband went out by car. We crossed much of the area and drove both beautiful coastal routes and through the hilly area and fairytale villages.

Coastal walk with the whole family

A day later, when the sun was shining again, we went out for a family coastal walk. From St Ives you can walk straight up the South West Coast Path towards St Ives Head and walk around The Island along the rocky coast. Before you know it, you’re an hour away – without feeling like you have to go anywhere. Whether you’re a keen walker or prefer a shorter walk, you can do either.

On a coastal walk near St Ives, you’ll enjoy rocks, cliffs, endless sky and sea. But then suddenly you’ll find yourself at a hidden cove or a group of grazing sheep. Do bring your own water and something tasty if you take a long walk, because you won’t encounter anything along the way – but that’s just the beauty of it.

Beaches to linger on

What I didn’t expect: the beaches here are really beautiful. And clean. And big. Even when it’s crowded, nowhere does it feel massive.

Porthminster Beach is quiet and close to the center of St Ives. The beach is nice and clean and you can get great food at the Porthminster Cafe. Porthmeor Beach is found on the other side of St Ives and is popular with surfers so it seems a little livelier there. At the Porthmeor Beach Cafe you can enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of wine overlooking the sea. Carbis Bay, a little further away, is almost exotic – the water there is clear blue and the beach slightly golden. When the sun shines, you almost don’t believe you’re still in England. Here you will find several beach bars where you can have a drink or a good meal.

On our last day in Cornwall, we went to Porthcurno Beach. This beach is almost at the southernmost tip from St Ives and can only be reached by the path through the rocks. It is a small, rugged beach known for its high waves. And even though the water was really, really cold, my kids couldn’t resist braving the waves. Which turned out to be quite a challenge. Clattering and a bit sore we ended our mini vacation in Cornwall this way.

Small trips – from beautiful places to cozy in the pub

Cornwall is one of those places where you don’t have to do much to have a nice day. But if you do want to see a little more, there is plenty of things to visit.

The Minack Theatre is an open-air theater carved into the rocks. Even if there is no performance, the view of the sea here is enough. St Michael’s Mount to the south at Mount’s Bay is a kind of English version of Mont Saint-Michel, complete with castle on an island. If it’s low tide, you can walk there along an old stone road. Land’s End is the tip of Cornwall, in southwest England. It is a tad touristy, but the feeling of being at the “end of England” is special. The roadside signs alone indicating Land’s End gave me a bit of a Pirates of the Caribean feeling.

And if you want to immerse yourself in local life, be sure to visit the local pub. Is the week we were in Cornwall, England played the European Cup final against Spain. We chose to watch this match in Hayle’s local pub, Bird in Hand. In the garden we sat with the local British soccer supporters watching the match and of course cheering along with the English, who unfortunately ended up losing this final 2-1.

Cornwall is not a place to want to see everything at once. It is a place to experience. And to think back to with pleasure later – to the smell of the sea, the sand under your shoes, and the feeling that for a moment you were truly away from it all.

Credits photos: OpstapmetLisa